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I am a newbie as far as sewing machines go. Can someone tell me why I can't sew in a straight line. Is it me, or my machine. I seem to start off straight then it wanders. Do you think I may be sewing to fast or slow? Hope someone can point me in the right direction, preferably a straight one lol.

Maureen

How old is the machine? I've had some that had rubberized feed dogs that wore out and wouldn't sew straight. The foot could not be centered over the feed dogs, the feed dogs not up all the way.
What happens if you put the foot down on the fabric? Can you move the fabric? If the fabric slides around - it isn't you. The machine might also have an adjustment for foot pressure. Check your manual or find one online.
I had the same thing happen to me. My mother had a Featherweight and I could never sew straight.
I really hated that machine. Then I bought cheap used ones, which weren't much better. I finally bought a Pfaff 1471 and had no problems and have had none since. It wasn't just the more expensive machine - it was the fact that the sewing problem wasn't me. Now that I know that, I can test any machine and if it sews straight and doesn't toss the fabric around on a stretch stitch, the machine is OK. What brand of machine is it, and how old is it?
Weezyrider

When I learned to sew in junior high school (many years ago), my instructor had us unthread the machine and stitch down the lines of a sheet of notbook paper until we could follow the lines. As stated in the previous post, you machine may need adjusting. You might want to talk to repairman.

You probably are not "doing" it right. First of all, you need to keep your eye on the seam allowance line. It is like plowing a field. You don't look at where you've been, you look at where you are intending to go. The best place to put the sewing machine is flat. If you have a machine on top of a table and it has an accessory piece that will make the bed flat, the better. It should, if you have a choice, sit below the table line when you are sewing. Most people, anymore, have to put the machine where they can...so that often is just a "best case senerio".

Now, feeding the fabric...the machine will feed the fabric. You need to get used to that and you need to allow the machine to do that. So, no pushing and NO PULLING the fabric. If your machine is flat, use the right hand flat on the table, in front of the machine to keep the fabric in line. If the fabric is "in the air", let it slip gently through your thumb and forefinger so that it is in line. Now, often the weight of the "garment" will pull the fabric off sides. If you are flat on a table, put your left hand a few inches from the left side of the needle and gently move the gament itself as it moves through the needle/feed dog unit. If you are on an elevated machine, use the tips of your fingers to help guide the left side of the fabric and occasionally move it up. After a while, this all becomes second nature.

There also should be a little wide, flat unit with a slide and a thumb screw in your accessory box. At the wide end, it turns up. Fasten this to your machine bed with the turn up pointing up. This is a seam guide. If you don't find one in your accessories, they are very cheap to buy. If you have a dealer, you can ask about a magnetic seam guide (to make sure it won't hurt the machine). There are also peal and stick guides that are lucite. I don't like to use these much and usually only use them when I run out of inches on my seam guide (bed). They are good things to have in your stock. There are also some that slide and fit into the backs of some brand machines' presser feet. It is better if you get used to using the imprinted seam guide if you can because you'll always be able to find that.

I too learned the paper way...after lined paper, we graduatd to arches and different angles. It really really helps you learn to control the machine and make a straight line and finally a continuous spiral. When you get your confidence, be sure and brush out your machine, oil it if your brand uses oil in the botom and change the needle as you'll have a lot of lint and little pieces of paper...and you'll have a very dull needle from the paper. Don't, by the way, use your fabric scissors to cut paper. It is also better if you keep a special pair just for fleece and felt as it is also very hard on scissors, pins and needles.

Thank You for your replies. I have a Brother, and its only about 2-3 months old. Just a basic model not all singing and dancing. I thought i would get an easy!! one first then if I learnt to use it then I could upgrade. It's not the cheapest so don't think it's not working correctly already. I sewed a ribbon onto a xmas stocking yesterday and the line of sewing looked like i had been drinking alcohol all day lol.

Maureen

Which model? I had bought several cheap Brother from the big box store, and ultimately, cleaned them of feet and tossed, one was mechanical, and one was electronic. But they are too lightweight for my tastes, but good in a pinch. If it is the warranty which it is, you have nothing to lose, take to the shop for warranty service, free. And keep taking it back until it is right. If it is a lemon, you will get a new one free if you complain right. On the other hand, you may need to adjust the tension, or change the foot pressure, or under the ribbon, use a stabilizer. There is a lot to it. A ribbon can be slippery, and the machine may not like it. the thing is the foot plate is set for zigzag and has a large opening, and a ribbon can be pulled into the opening. they used to sell straight stitch foot plates that would avoid that problem. What I hated about the last brother is that every time, I lifted the flywheel, the thread would come out of the needle for some reason.

As for a straight stitch, think about driving, and forge ahead, you could always make a guideline with quilt pencil or pen, and check periodically with a little six inch sewing ruler guide set to the seam width.

Also, if it is just general work, once you press the seam, or if you get rid of it with the serger, it won't even show that there is a deviation as long as the tensions are set right. Check your manual, and don't give up or be too hard on yourself. Be sure the bobbin thread goes through the tension guides as well. Take it to the shop, and stitch something there, so you can show them the problem. The first year is all free for service. Call around to see which shop covers the Brother warranty. Also, if you bought from certain places, take it back if you can. Then come back and ask what machine to get for your purposes.

The Bernina machines have a foot with a blade that is great for sewing along the edges of things. I wouldn't expect that the equilivent Brother foot would be that expensive. You might look for it. For Bernina it is the Bernina #10 (or #5 but I think 5 is the blind stitch foot..they look very much alike)...just in case you want to see what I'm talking about.

I am a fan of seam guides. If you don't have one use a pack of post it sticky notes, I have also seen people use mole skin. And I have been sewing 50 yrs on a machine and still frequently use them for quilting seams.

you might want ot try a 1/4 " seam allowance foot on your machine. I also have a brother and I've had it for not quite 6 months and the 1/4" foot works real well on my machine. I would not do with out it tho I can sew a straight line with out it. Most seam allowances are 1/4 " unless stated in the pattern instruction diffrent. Some say 1/2 " and some say 5/8" seam allwance. Your machine should have the lines on the throat plate and that you can lay your fabric next to that line or you can use a post it note and stick that on it and then let your fabric glide along the side of the post it notes. Great tip if I say so myself. Good luck, Huggies, Fay

If you use pattern from the major pattern companies, McCalls, Butterick, Vogue or Simplicity, the seam allowances are nearly always 5/8 unless you are doing a quilting pattern, then they may be different. 1/4 seams are more common in American patterns as quilting seam allowances. Many Euorpean patterns come completely without seam allowances which have to be added...believe me, if you remove 1/4 inch from each seamline without adding the allowances, you'll have a much smaller pattern real quick. If you only have two side seams on your pattern, you've already removed 1", if you have a back seam, you've removed 1 1/2 inch, not to mention height/waist length. Also, it could make a world of difference in how a set in sleeve would work since many set in sleeves only have 1 seam while most garments have one at the shoulder and at the side seam, more if it is princess-style.

I do agree though that the 1/4 inch seamed foot certainly has its place in sewing.

There was a day when garments which had less than 5/8" seams were considered to be cheap and skimpy, and serged seams were only found in cheap clothing. Now, with more home seamstresses having sergers and the assembly line methods in factories, serged seams are becoming more the standard, although finer clothing is still considered to have wider seams because they hang better.

I have to admit im right there with you at times. When I need to be sure I have a really straight seam I use felt bars on my machine it works perfectly it helps guide the fabric under the needle keeping it straight.

I agree with many of the posts here.
Don't worry about having a fancy machine or special feet. Your machine should work just fine.

I wonder if it is the tension on the machine? Sometimes new machines are 'loose screws' from shipping.

How do your top & bottom stitches look in relation to each other? Are they even?

Keep coming back here for trouble shooting advice. This is a great group!

maggieb!

For an "emergency" seam guide I use a lowly rubberband. Just place a wide rubberband around your machine freearm at the proper marking and it helps you sew a straight seam. On my machines, I can still replace the case so I can sew with the large bed (they're not THAT tight!!). I do agree that if the seam guide doesn't help, you may have to take the machine in for servicing.

Vanessa

I know this isn't an answer, but when I saw your title and post, it reminded me of one of my sewing (mis)adventures. I was really tired but had to have something finished by morning. (sound familiar to anyone?) I can't even remember what it was now, but it had long straight seams and I was stitching and stitching and stitching, almost hypnotized, and started to veer off of the stitching line. I just watched it go. It was registering in my mind that I wasn't stitching where I needed to be, but I was so out of it I couldn't do anything about it. Of course when I finally stopped, I had to use the seam ripper. I still laugh about it (as do my sewing friends). I don't know why I couldn't stop but I was just so fascinated watching myself sew wrong.

Wel...... I looked at all the answers, Thank You all so much. I have tried the post it note and the elastic band method. Thought I would try that first as i had them!. I found that I was pulling the material through too quickly. I now realise that I should let the material just glide through with the little feet thingys guiding it. I tried it and found I only had to correct it slightly when the material just started to move slightly over the elastic band. I couldn't believe I had done. I always feel that I try to run before I can walk. Thanks all for your advice. No doubt I will be asking for help again! lol, just glad you are all here.